Brian’s name is well known around the office, as his wines have been responsible for impressing plenty of our clients lately. I’ve recommended many of the beautiful Pinot Noir gems he has produced for the Pali label and today we had the treat of tasting through six of his 2007 single vineyard Pinots from his personal label, Loring Wine Company.

Brian’s story is an interesting one. He reports that he first discovered his love for the Pinot grape while working in a Hollywood wine shop where he was introduced to the great Burgundies from Domaine Dujac, Henri Jayer and DRC. It was only after he literally tripped over a case of Josh Jenson’s Calera Pinots in the wine shop that he discovered a Pinot he could love that wasn’t made in Burgundy.

Without any formal winemaking training or experience, he was fueled purely by his passion for the varietal and was ultimately taken under the wing of Norm Beko from Cottonwood Canyon where he learned the “hard way” how to make truly great Pinot from California fruit.

Ten years later, Brian Loring is a considered a bit of a super-star with his new school style of Pinots from some of the finest, coveted vineyards from California to the Willamette Valley. It’s important to note that Brian’s intent is not to make Pinots that will age for the long term, rather to produce a wine that shows very well, right now. Very fruit forward, extracted – new school – is his artistic bent. “We’re not your father’s Pinot producer..” he said while cracking opening one of his highly rated screw-capped Pinots.

Here’s what we tasted from the 2007 vintage..

2007 Keefer Ranch Vineyard ~ Russian River Valley ~ WS 92

This wine showed a bright nose of fresh strawberry jam that just about jumped out of the glass. Good legs point to a fair amount of glycerin. On the palate it was intense, young, with good fruit and acid. A very fruit forward Pinot that would likely be very food friendly. 1050 cases.

2007 Rosella’s Vineyard ~ Santa Lucia Highlands ~ WS 92

Much more of a restrained nose than the Keefer, but definitely a weightier mouthfeel. Again, very nice acid but instead of strawberries, I got more of a sweet baked cherry pie experience. 750 cases.

2007 Russell Family Vineyard ~ Paso Robles ~ WS 93

This Pinot has a very impressive, very dark nose. On the palate I experienced more of an overripe strawberry, strawberry-rhubarb pie with a slight hint of mushroom. 725 cases.

2007 Aubaine Vineyard ~ San Louis Obispo ~ WS 93

This is a lighter, even more fruit forward Pinot with lively, bright and very well balanced fruit. 350 cases.

2007 Cargassacchi Vineyard ~ Santa Rita Hills ~ WS 91

Wow. What an example of new school style Pinot: Rich, jammy in the mouth with essense of mushrooms, sweet chocolate covered cherries with a touch of white pepper and earth. 275 cases.

2007 Clos Pepe Vineyard ~ Santa Rita Hills ~ WS 94

Definitely the most beautiful and perfumed nose of the bunch. Good black cherry and blueberry on the palate. Really couldn’t get over the prettiness of that nose and the finish leaves you with even more perfume, but not overbearing by any means. 800 cases.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Brian Loring’s impressive Pinots

The 2005 Black Coyote Reserve was made entirely from Atlas Peak fruit, grown in red-volcanic soils in a mountain-top environment that consistently remains around ten degrees cooler than the Napa Valley floor. The Atlas Peak region is known for producing intense, low yield fruit. And in the hands of winemaker Marco DiGiulio (Pine Ridge Winery, Atlas Peak Vineyards, Pezzi King, Pepi, Lakoya) the 2005 crop was transformed into an exceptionally fine example of mountain-top Napa Cabernet.

Although this is not the first time I have tasted this wine, it certainly seems to impress me more each time I do.

The first thing I noticed about this wine this time around was the beautiful, luxurious nose, albeit with some restraint. Expressing rich dark fruits that almost seemed to want to cut through the initially tight nose, but it definitely unfolded nicely over the two or so hours it spent breathing in my glass. On the palate, it was soft and elegant. Almost like silk in the glass. I specifically caught a hint of ripe summer blackberry on the finish.

This is a fine example of collectible Cabernet from the Atlas Peak region in Napa. At a mere 800 case production in 2008 and an even smaller 670 case production in 2006 (not yet released) I expect this wine to continue to receive praise in the trade press and likely more price increases in the marketplace. If you like well balanced, complex and elegant top-shelf Napa Cabernets that will age well, you should definitely put away a box (or few) of the 2005 Black Coyote Reserve.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Black Coyote Reserve.

The Verve label was founded by Jerome Aubin, native of France turned California wine producer. But not before completing his International Business Masters Degree in Paris, then relocating to Sonoma County in July 1995 to help start a cooperage in the classic french tradition. That project ultimately transitioned into a successful wine barrel and bin importing business, providing close to 600 west coast wineries with artisan style barrels, cement, stainless-steel and wooden fermentation tanks.

Also worthy of note are the beautiful Verve labels, displaying (mostly French) expressionist paintings, from Jerome Aubin’s personal collection.

First poured was an interesting French white varietal called Colombard. If you’re not familiar with the Colombard varietal, it’s likely because it’s normally used as a blending grape in the production of Armagnac, a distinctive style of brandy.

The 2007 Verve French Colombard comes from the “Domaine de Mirail” located in the heart of Gascony in southwest France. The specific site is in the Cotes de Gascogne region, and is an old, densely planted vineyard situated on a south-facing limestone and clay hillside. Hints of white peach, jasmine and honeydew on the nose, slightly creamy texture with a crisp, refreshing minerality and racy acidity typical of French Colombard from the Cotes de Gascogne. Served well-chilled, Verve French Colombard will prove a classic match with fish, oysters and other shellfish, salad or goat cheese. On its own, the Verve Colombard is a nice alternative to your normal first-course whites. Perfect while preparing dinner or simply feasting on a sunset.

Next was a pleasant 2007 Sauvignon Blanc made from twenty-two year old “Villa San Juliette” vineyard in the northeast of Paso Robles. The vines are grown on a limestone hillside soil with a southern exposure. With an almost restrained, lightly floral nose, this Sauvignon Blanc explodes with tropical fruit on the finish. It would be best served very cold, on a very warm day.

Verve has also turned out two interesting single-vineyard Pinot Noirs in the 2006 vintage, one from the Sonoma Coast Appellation (Freestone) and the other from the Willamette Valley (Dundee Hills).

First poured was the 2006 Sonoma Coast Pinot, which showed a classic nose of mushrooms, must and sweet perfume. On the palate were elegant notes of sweet cherry and rhubarb. Not overly extracted, this is a nice (affordable) expression of Pinot coming from a region well suited for the varietal.

Next came the 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot made from the sustainably farmed “Stoller Vineyard” in Dundee Hills (a sub-appellation of the Willamette Valley) which was another example of “new school” Pinot, but with a healthy nod toward traditional Burgundian styling. Again on the nose I caught ample mushroom, earth and perfume, on the palate was a pleasant core of light red berry fruits, with a distinctive thread of mineral essence that would encourage me to call this Pinot a definite “food wine.”

Last but definitely not least came two single vineyard offerings of Syrah. The first was a 2005 “Richard Dinner Vineyard” Syrah from the Sonoma Mountain Appellation. Sweet jammy fruit on the nose, with a very pretty core of sweet, ripe berry fruit. A very well rounded, well balanced Syrah.

Finally came their 2005 Syrah from the 900-1200ft elevation “Boushey Vineyard” in the Colombia Valley Appellation near Yakima, WA. This Syrah exhibiy6 black pepper, smoke and dried roses on the nose, a deep, intense darkness in the glass, velvet on the palate with cocoa and asian spice.

In reflection, the Verve wines are in my opinion stylistically balanced between the “new school” of winemaking and the classic french tradition of expressing the varietal in its truest form. Truly an art form in the glass.

Renaissance’s winemaker Gideon Beinstock handcrafts their estate-bottled wines in a traditional European style. Gideon first arrived at Renaissance in the 1970s and helped to plant the vineyard. During the 1980s he roamed the vineyards of France, exploring their wines and wineries. He built friendships with a number of winemakers in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, and was particularly influenced by such wine experts as Steven Spurrier (Academie du Vin, Paris, 1980/81) and Maggie McNie, MW (Masters of Wine Program, London 1989). With his half-French heritage, Gideon’s first love was definitely French wines. He began to write articles about wines and conduct classes. He returned to Renaissance in the early 1990s where he gained hands-on experience as assistant winemaker under Diana Werner.

When he became head winemaker in January 1994, Gideon brought a radical change to their winemaking art: he “finished” the 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon, blending Renaissance’s traditionally pure varietal Cabernet Sauvignon with 4 percent Merlot and 1.5% Sauvignon Blanc. The result was a gold medal at the 1995 VINEXPO and a great deal of critical praise. Wine author and columnist, Matt Kramer, proclaimed this 1991 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon as “one of its best–intense, filled with a blackcurrant scent and superbly balanced” and further described it as “stunning and long-lived.” It was this wine that prompted him to call Renaissance “California’s best-kept Cabernet secret.”

Originally, the Renaissance winemaking style was highly extracted, thick, very tannic, designed for long aging in the bottle. Gideon’s “hands off” style of winemaking is based on minimal manipulation: gentle extraction, no inoculations, no fining or filtration doing everything in his power to highlight the expression of the terroir in the wine.

Since 1994 Gideon has conducted a series of experiments with additional grape varieties in their vineyards, searching for the best microclimate, soil, and varietal combination. This program opened new horizons for their use of blends as a winemaking tool (for example, Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Merlot), and lead to the creation of a whole range of exciting new wines, such as Syrah, Grenache, Viognier and Roussanne.

Compared to the single varietal approach, blending a few varietals to maximize the expression of the soil and “sense of place” is a key element in the French winemaking tradition. Gideon, who trained as an artist, describes his winemaking art: “Just as a painter mixes different colors to capture the essence of light, I work with a palette of different grapes to achieve compositions that capture the essence of our vineyard.”

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Renaissance wines.

This 2005 Cabernet was gently pressed from grapes planted, grown and tended by Paul himself on the Hein family ranch in the Deer Park area of St. Helena (just below Howell Mountain). The result is a fantastic velvety and full bodied; medium-rich Cabernet with a distinctive nose and flavors of black currant, cherry, toast, and spicy oak. Long, mildly tannic finish. This boutique Napa Valley Cabernet (less than 300 cases!) drinks well right now if you love lively young Napa Cabernets. It should also mature and evolve quite well over the next 3-7 years.

Vineyard: Hein Vineyard
Harvest Date: Nov. 16, 2005
Varietal Composition: 100% Cabernet Clones 4 & 6
100% Malolactic Fermentation
Barrel Aging: 26 Months, 100% French Oak
Sugar at Harvest: 29.1 Brix
Alcohol: 14.5%
Total Acid:. 7.1 g/liter
pH: 3.5
Residual Sugar: 0.06%

Production: 293 Cases

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire P.B. Hein Cabernet.

This 2005 single vineyard designate Pinot from L’Ecosse is rich and weighty with layers of blue and black fruit, deep earthiness with almost chewy tannins with enough structure to lay down for a good 10 years.

This new-school style Pinot from L’Ecosse should pair quite well with any type of roast, lamb, steaks and chops. However be fair warned that the L’Ecosse could almost be considered a meal in itself! And at 120 cases produced, it’s virtually guaranteed to disappear before our eyes, so don’t wait to experience this monster Willamette Valley Pinot.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire L’Ecosse Pinot Noir.

The 2004 Fucci Titolo—an award-winning, blockbuster cuvée that captures and concentrates the energy of an active volcano at its pure, Aglianico-driven heart—cannot be ignored. Fucci and family have been awarded Italy’s highest wine honors two years running for this high-altitude, utterly explosive Aglianico wine, yet we’ve never been more impressed than with their outstanding 2004.

Aglianico is one of Italy’s most noble indigenous varietals, and at its best can rival Nebbiolo and Sangiovese Grosso for complexity, power and longevity. In the past, the wines were rustic and tannic, often dried out and over-wooded. Today the best Aglianico bottlings compete with the greatest red wines in the world. Fucci’s Titolo is one example of how breathtaking and impressive Aglianico can be!

Aglianico (believed to be a corruption of “hellenico,” or Hellenic, Greek) found its way here via Greek colonies on the coast who eventually migrated inland, and further north. With their belongings they too brought their favorite grape, which happened to flourish in the volcanic soils of the highlands.

The soils in this region are a series of layers of “pozzolana” volcanic ash from the successive eruptions of now-extinct Mount Vulture, which looms over the area to the north. Some layers are dense and hold water throughout the summer, while other layers act like gravel and easily drain water. It’s ideal terroir for vines, and similar to regions such as Pauillac, with its clay and gravel layers.

The vineyards for “Titolo,” named after one of three lava flows that surround Barile, sit at more than 2,000 feet and are some of the highest of the appellation. The soils here, called “pozzolana,” are pure volcanic ash and rock. Harvested by hand starting at the end of October, this cuvée is practically the last dry red wine harvested in all of Europe, and shows a concentration and perfume that is unparalleled.

The pitch-black lava flows surrounding the town of Barile today give birth to some of the boldest dry red wines in the world—yet Basilicata still remains practically undiscovered as a region for great wine.

We’re convinced that Titolo in 2004 will achieve epic status—this is a wine that will continue to unveil its treasures over many decades. (We’ve opened older bottles of Aglianico and to a one they age in step with the finest Barolo—if not longer.) Crushed boysenberries in the glass, Titolo consumes you with perfumes of baking spices, licorice and dark chocolate. Buy a case today, and put it away for 30 years. A treasure truly worth waiting for.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Titolo.

Paul’s approach to winemaking is designed to produce an extremely small lot, 1 ton or so, as a test to prove out both the vineyard and the winemaking method prior to releasing any wine for production. The best technique can’t make excellent wine from less than excellent grapes. Given the right vineyard in the right terroir, the grapes will do most of the work of making an excellent wine. According to Paul, it is the job of the winemaker to do no harm, and allow the grapes to ‘do their thing’.

Paul believes strongly in old world winemaking: small lots, bin fermentation and as little mechanical intervention as is humanly possible. No huge stainless steel vats, no mechanical pumpovers. Being ‘hands on’ with each bin allows him to produce the highest quality wines possible, albeit in small quantities. The largest batch he has produced to date is only 400 cases.

And this brings us to a fabulous Syrah release from P.B. Hein:

PB Hein “Trailblazer” Syrah Lyons Vineyard Napa 2005 Dark garnet color with youthful aromas of licorice, blackberry, leathery notes and dried fruit; Big, ripe, young, clean, slightly oaky, blackberry fruit flavors wrapped in a rich, medium to medium-full bodied mouthfeel. Good balance with firm tannins and a moderately long finish.

The Lyons Vineyard is located high in the slopes of the Wild Horse Valley and produces small berries in loose clusters similar to the cabernet grapes Paul is used to working with. It cosists of 3 blocks from 1,531 – 1,660 feet of elevation and the south-east facing provides a low yield, high quality fruit.

This wine just took GOLD at the West Coast Wine Competion. We also poured this fantastic wine at the 2008 Sonoma Mountain Art & Wine Festival where it was a huge favorite with syrah-savvy patrons. If you consider yourself a true fan of the Syrah varietal, you won’t want to miss this champion thoroughbred offering from Napa. And with less than 400 cases to go around, this one could be easy to miss if you don’t move quickly.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire P.B. Hein Trailblazer.

We recently poured this wine at the 2008 Sonoma Mountain Art & Wine Festival and it was a very big hit with the Zinfandel fans. In fact, it was one of the first reds we ran out of – and we really did bring quite a bit of this wine. I personally noticed a fair amount of black pepper on the nose, followed by loads of dark, jammy blackberry fruit richness. This wine can definitely hold its own with whatever spicy dish you decide to throw at it.

This was taken right from the Dark Horse’s mouth, so to speak: “Does eat oats and goats eat oats but the Dark Horse eats the competition. Let the little lambs eat whatever they want. Our 2005 Zinfandel was in the winner’s circle and our 2006 looks to be crossing to the lead for this vintage. Rich in jammy black cherry, intense wild berry, smoke and licorice. It has cinnamon and clove aromas followed by both white and cracked black pepper.”

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire the Dark Horse.

The 2000, Seavey Vineyard’s eleventh estate produced Cabernet is a blend of 87% Cabernet, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Merlot grapes harvested during the month of October from several different locations of the south-facing hillside vineyard. In its most recent review, the Seavey 2000 Cabernet is ranked as one of Napa’s top 2000’s. “Complex nose melds black raspberry, dark chocolate, licorice, roasted meat, and sexy oak notes. Fat and sweet in the middle, with warm flavors of plum…suggests almost roasted ripeness, yet shows very good flavor definition. Finishes with horizontal, fine tannins and lovely persistence. A very successful 2000 from an area (Conn Valley) in which the fruit obviously ripened well.”‘ Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar,’ May/June 2003.

Harvested at 24.5 degrees brix, the yields were 2 tons/acre, up from 1.5 tons the previous year, but still quite low. Winemaking style followed classic Bordeaux methods. The juice remained in contact with the skins for an average of 21 days, and, following malolactic fermentation, was aged in French oak barrels (60% new oak) until bottling on May 23-24, 2002.

The wine drinks beautifully now and should age well for 12 to 20 years.

Phillipe Melka is the winemaker for this bottling, the winemaker who put Opus One on the map – probably one of the most sought after (and highest priced) winemaking consultants in the Napa Valley.

The 2000 vintage was heavily panned by the critics, there was late rain and many producers were afraid of losing their entire yeild. As I understand it, Phillipe told them to take the gamble and hold steady, and they were clearly rewarded for their patience. Parker called this wine a super star, and so do we. In my personal opinion, if you were to drink this wine over the next two or three years, you’ll be impressed every time. But remember – once it’s gone, it’s gone.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Seavey wines.

R&B Cellars 2004 Reserve Cabernet Napa Valley – Vineyard: Bingham Ranch – The Bingham Ranch in Calistoga is one of the oldest cabernet vineyards in the Napa Valley, dating back to 1850s. There are two parcels of vines used in this cabernet, one is 55 years old and the other is 35 years. It is a small berry clone with very low yields, approximately one and a half tons per acre. The resulting fruit is very intensely flavored with a rich dark blackberry profile that makes intensely structured cabernet sauvignon.

Winemaker’s Comments: This 2004 R&B Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is an extraordinary wine with remarkable depth and complexity. It exhibits a huge core of dark black cherry fruit with elements of dark black currant, tea, smoked duck and violets in the bouquet. The small addition of Merlot adds softness, color and a touch of sweet cherries. The flavors of dark black berries, currants, chocolate, and cassis are evident, with a huge juicy blackberry finish. This wine is a classic Cabernet Sauvignon with all of the exotic spice and layers of fruit you would expect from a Reserve wine.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire R&B Cellars Reserve Cabernet

First up was their 2006 Red Label Sonoma County Pinot Noir made from a blend of fruit from throughout the county, with a particular focus on the Russian River Valley. Bright red cherry aromas with an earthy, woodsy tone dominate the nose. I also noticed a hint of rosemary wafting from the glass. Lighter in color and fruit, all in all, this is a nice little pinot to enjoy now with a casual fall lunch.

Next came the 2006 La Brisa Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir which was a bit heavier than the Red Label, expressing nice, juicy fruit and a bit higher acidity. Also a great casual Pinot to drink now, or enjoy over the next few years. And now for the single vineyard designates…

2006 Griffin’s Lair Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir This wine was a clear step up from the first two. The nose was a bit smoky, the bright berry fruit on the mid-palate was fairly intense, and finished off with a nice balanced acid finish. Truly rare at a mere 283 cases production.

2006 Brosseau Chalone Pinot Noir The Brosseau started off with a nice smoky, cedar nose. In the mouth you’ll experience rich dark chocolate undertones, dark berry fruit with a slightly weighty mouthfeel. Finishing with good acid and a smoky curtain call. A meager 200 cases of this Pinot were made.

2006 Hein Vineyard Pinot Noir I have to describe this Pinot as truly exciting to the senses. While the nose was a bit restrained, the fruit was just electric and jazzy. Explosive acid just arouses the palate with flavors of rich red berries and chocolate covered cherries. This wine is young and fun, with loads of complexity. Place this on your Thanksgiving table this season for a lovely treat.

2006 Savoy Anderson Valley Pinot Noir The Savoy was lighter in smoke than some of the other Roessler stars, but still noticeable. Excellent ruby color, killer acid and fruit in this wine. The 2006 Savoy has definitely held the Anderson Valley Pinot reputation banner high. Only 330 cases of this wine exist to be had.

Contact Jonathan Keller to acquire Roessler wines.